Most US states use a three-class system for e-bikes. The class determines where you can legally ride, and sometimes age and helmet rules. Knowing the class before you buy saves you from owning a bike you can't use on your favorite path.
The three classes
| Class | How the motor helps | Assisted top speed | Throttle |
|---|---|---|---|
| Class 1 | Only while pedaling | 20 mph | No |
| Class 2 | Pedaling or throttle | 20 mph | Yes |
| Class 3 | Only while pedaling | 28 mph | Typically no (varies by state) |
Federal law defines a low-speed electric bicycle as having fully operable pedals and a motor under 750 watts. State laws then set where each class can ride.
Where can each class ride?
- Class 1 is usually allowed wherever regular bikes are, including many multi-use paths.
- Class 2 is often treated like Class 1, but some trails restrict throttles.
- Class 3 is often restricted from multi-use paths and may have age or helmet requirements.
- Mountain bike trails and parks set their own rules. Check before you ride.
Which class should you buy?
| You mainly ride | Consider |
|---|---|
| Bike paths and greenways | Class 1 |
| Mixed, and want a throttle for starts | Class 2 |
| Roads, longer commutes | Class 3 |
Can a bike change class?
Some models let you switch modes in settings. The bike's label and local rules decide how it's classified, so keep it in a class allowed where you ride.
Brands by class
Aventon, Velotric and Rad Power Bikes list each model's class on their product pages.
Official sites: Aventon, Velotric, Rad Power Bikes.
How we evaluated
Scores on this page are editorial scores out of 10. We built them from official product, pricing and documentation pages, checked in October 2026, using the weighted criteria below. Advertisers do not influence our ratings, and we haven't run lab-style benchmarks for this page.
| Criterion | Weight | What we looked at |
|---|---|---|
| Lineup fit | 30% | Range of commuter, cargo, folding and step-through models on official sites |
| Warranty and returns | 20% | Published warranty length, return windows and conditions |
| Service options | 20% | Dealer network, mobile service, parts availability |
| Spec transparency | 15% | Motor, battery, class, weight and certifications listed on brand pages |
| Value | 15% | Published prices relative to listed specs |
We haven't road-tested these bikes for this page. Specs, prices and warranties change by model and season, so confirm on each brand's official site before you buy.
Related: Best direct-to-consumer e-bikes · E-bike classes explained · How to buy an e-bike online
How this page was made: from each provider's official product and pricing pages and its public documentation. We haven't run a formal hands-on test for this page. When we add hands-on notes, we'll label them.
This is general information, not legal advice. E-bike rules vary by state and city.
Choosing a class for your use
Riders on multi-use paths may prefer Class 1, which is allowed in more places. Riders who want a throttle for starts may prefer Class 2. Riders commuting longer distances on roads may prefer Class 3 where allowed. Check local laws.
Buying online: what to check before checkout
- Return policy: how many days, condition requirements, and who pays return shipping for a large box.
- Warranty: length and coverage for the frame, motor, battery and electronics, and how claims work.
- Assembly: how much assembly is needed, and whether professional assembly is offered.
- Service: whether there are partner shops near you, and parts availability.
- Shipping: delivery time and whether the box needs inspecting for damage on arrival.
- Total price: including accessories, taxes and shipping.
Locking and theft prevention
E-bikes are attractive to thieves. Use a sturdy lock such as a heavy U-lock or chain through the frame to a fixed object, and add a second lock for the wheel if possible. Remove the battery and display when parking for long periods if the design allows. Record the frame serial number, register the bike where registries exist, keep receipts and photos, and consider insurance that covers theft. Some riders add a hidden tracker.
E-bike classes in brief
Many US states use a three-class system. Class 1 bikes provide pedal assist only, up to a set speed. Class 2 bikes add a throttle that can propel the bike without pedalling, up to the same speed. Class 3 bikes provide pedal assist up to a higher speed. Exact speed limits, where each class may ride, helmet rules and age limits vary by state and city, and some trails and paths restrict certain classes. Check the label on the bike, the brand's listed class for each model, and your local rules before buying.
E-bike glossary
- Pedal assist
- The motor adds power when you pedal.
- Throttle
- A control that powers the bike without pedalling (Class 2).
- Hub motor
- A motor in the wheel hub.
- Mid-drive
- A motor at the pedals that drives the chain.
- Torque sensor
- Measures pedalling force to scale assist.
- Cadence sensor
- Detects pedalling to trigger assist.
- Wh
- Watt-hours, a measure of battery capacity.
Getting the right fit
An e-bike that doesn't fit is uncomfortable no matter how good the motor is. Brands list frame sizes or a recommended rider height range for each model; check it against your height and, if possible, your inseam. Step-through frames make mounting easier for many riders and are popular for commuting in regular clothes. Step-over frames tend to suit riders who want a sportier position. Check handlebar reach and saddle height adjustment, and whether the bike's listed maximum payload covers you plus anything you carry. If you can, test ride at a dealer or demo event before buying.
Total cost of ownership
Beyond the purchase price, budget for a lock, helmet, lights if not included, fenders or racks, a professional assembly or tune-up if needed, regular consumables (tyres, brake pads, chain), possible battery replacement years later, and insurance. Prices for models and accessories change often with promotions, so compare current totals on each brand's official site.
Unboxing and assembly tips
Most direct-to-consumer e-bikes arrive partially assembled. Photograph the box before opening in case of shipping damage. Follow the brand's official assembly video or manual exactly, use a torque wrench where torque values are specified, and check that the handlebar, stem, front wheel, pedals and brakes are tightened correctly. Pedals are side-specific: the left pedal threads the opposite way. If anything feels uncertain, especially brakes, have a bike shop check it before your first ride. Charge the battery fully before first use as the manual directs.
What to check on a test ride
- How smoothly the assist engages and disengages.
- Braking power and feel, especially downhill.
- Comfort of the riding position over several minutes.
- Ease of reading the display and using the controls.
- How easy the bike is to lift, walk and park.
- Noise and any rattles.
Rules and etiquette
Know your local rules on where e-bikes can ride, speed limits on shared paths, helmet and age requirements, and lighting at night. Ride predictably, signal turns, slow down around pedestrians, and use a bell. Some insurers and employers have their own requirements for commuting by e-bike.
Dealer versus direct purchase
Buying through a local dealer usually means professional assembly, a test ride, help with fit and a place to go for service. Buying direct from a brand's website can mean more model choice and promotions, but you'll handle assembly and find service yourself. Some brands offer both. Ask local shops in advance whether they'll service a bike bought online, since policies vary.
Setting up for commuting
Commuters benefit from fenders, a rear rack or panniers, integrated or bright lights, and puncture-resistant tyres. Plan a route using bike lanes and quieter streets, ride it once on a weekend, and check where you'll park and whether you can charge at work. Carry a small kit: a pump or CO2, tyre levers, a spare tube or plug kit, and a multitool. Many models include some commuting accessories; check each listing.
Torque versus cadence sensors
A cadence sensor turns the motor on when it detects the pedals turning, and the assist level sets the power. It's simple and makes riding feel easy, though it can feel less natural. A torque sensor measures how hard you push and scales assist to match, which many riders find feels more like a regular bike. If ride feel matters to you, look for which sensor a model uses on its official page and try both on a test ride if you can.
Battery safety basics
- Buy bikes and batteries whose listings state certification to recognised safety standards; check the brand's official page for which standards apply to each model.
- Use only the charger supplied or approved by the manufacturer.
- Charge on a hard surface away from flammable materials, and don't leave charging batteries unattended for long periods.
- Stop using a battery that is swollen, damaged, overheating or smells unusual, and contact the brand.
- Store batteries in moderate temperatures and follow the manufacturer's storage-charge guidance for long breaks.
- Recycle old batteries through approved programmes; never put them in household trash.
Reading a warranty properly
Warranties often cover different parts for different periods: the frame may have a longer term than electrical components such as the motor, battery, display and controller. Check whether the warranty requires registration, whether assembly by a professional is required to keep coverage, how claims are handled for online purchases, and whether labour is covered. Keep your receipt and serial number.
Hub motor or mid-drive: what the difference means
Hub motors sit in the front or rear wheel hub and push the wheel directly. They're common on direct-to-consumer bikes, tend to be simpler, and work independently of the gears. Mid-drive motors sit at the pedals and drive the chain, so they use the bike's gears, which can help on steep hills, but they put more wear on the chain and cassette. Neither is automatically better; the right choice depends on terrain, budget and how you ride. Check each model's official spec page for which motor type it uses.
Brakes and tyres
E-bikes are heavier and often faster than regular bikes, so braking matters. Hydraulic disc brakes generally need less hand force and self-adjust as pads wear; mechanical disc brakes are simpler to service. Wider tyres add comfort and grip, while narrower tyres roll more efficiently on smooth roads. Check which brakes and tyres each model uses on its official page, and replace pads and tyres before they're worn out.
Routine maintenance
- Every ride: check tyre pressure, brakes and lights.
- Weekly for commuters: wipe and lube the chain, check for loose bolts.
- Monthly: inspect brake pads, tyre tread and spokes.
- Periodically: have a shop service brakes, gears and wheels; e-bikes are heavier and wear consumables faster than regular bikes.
- Electrics: keep connectors clean and dry, and follow the brand's guidance on washing (avoid pressure washers).
Frequently asked questions
What is a Class 2 e-bike?
Do I need a license for an e-bike?
Is a Class 3 e-bike allowed on bike paths?
Can I change my bike's class?
How we score
Our scores are editorial scores out of 10. They're our judgment, weighted across the criteria below, based on each provider's official product pages, pricing and documentation, plus public feedback. They aren't user ratings or lab test results, and commissions don't change them.
- Lineup fit for common uses
- Published warranty and return terms
- Service and dealer options
- Specs transparency on brand pages
- Value
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